More witchy brews – all done!

1. February 2013 PiaPå dansk

Finally got the last of the Dorsets coloured up with madder and weld. Some of the chunks had previously been dyed with other plants, but I wanted to see what happened if they had another dip – without any kind of plan or registration of which is what. Some dyed at 50 C, then a new batch in the same bath at 80 C for both plants.

Now to flick and then wait until I can card it. There’s a total of 1400 g so it’s going to take a while, since I also have that Suffolk fleece from the same source. I know I should practice using my handcarders, but argh!

And that’ll be all for a while, off to work on other stuff.

Færdig

Endelig har jeg fået plantefarvet al min Dorset uld, så skal det bare renses for planterester og kartes en gang. Der er i alt 1400 g, så det kommer til at tage tid. Jeg har også en Suffolk ham som jeg har pletfarvet med syrefarver, den skal have samme behandling før jeg kan spinde.

Jeg har brugt kraprod og hjemmedyrket vau, første bad ved 50 grader, blandet bejset og ikke, derefter mere blandet og før-farvet uld i samme bad og op på 80 grader

Ikke mere plantefarvning i denne omgang, nu er der fokus på andre projekter.

Hollyhock 3

23. January 2013 PiaPå dansk

This post will be a collection of my last experiments this time round. Nothing special, just to wrap it up as, well as being the only kind of documentation I seem motivated to do for my dyeing…

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I took the very acid jar, strained the flowers, crammed the jar with fleece undtil it was all soaked up, then I filled the jar until it was full and topped it up with the “no longer alkaline” liquid from the blue skein. Since that was already done from exhausts, there was not much juice left, but I wanted to see if I could create a “rainbow” jar or if it would all eventually intermingle to one shade. And this did indeed happen. On the last night the jar was still variegated in looks, red, purple, brown, but in the morning when I wanted to empty it, all purple. The biggest surprise came when I put half of it into ammonia. It didn’t change AT ALL!? No green. WTF? So despite having measured the water to pH 10, I held my breath and added another glug of ammonia. And got grey…. Leaves me wondering if the tin mordant makes the purple more stable?

Then I put the very sour flowers from above into a new jar and topped with rain water to see how much juice they had left. Start pH 3 just from the acid in the soaked flowers. Put it on stove shelf, they did indeed contain more dyestuff. pH 3 while hot. Added too much fleece so topped with rainwater, pH 4, very pale pink. Back on the shelf because I had trouble with the set below and wanted to heat test the fleece in dye, even a weak one, before adding the rest of the fleece to a new bath in the canner.

As I mentioned in connection with the pink skein, the heat in itself seems to alter the dye to purple despite the pH. When it was done, it ended up silver grey and it’s the first time I’ve seen a plant dyebath exhause completely. Absolutely clear water left when I took the fleece out! The flowers themselves were also done for, 1st image below is flowers after the last extraction.

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The Teaser jars: I emptied them after 3 days instead of weeks, as it looked like they were as dark as they could get and just beginning to alter their shade. Turns out, the fleece wasn’t really taking the dye. Whether due to my previously unresolved issues with Dorset or the cold method, hard to tell since no yarn was in there with it. I put it back.

Wait 10 days, still in the window, temps 15-20 C. Very dark liquid, fleece rinsing out nearly white. Mould on top of the rainwater jar, the vinegar jar keeping fine. Time for a quickie on the shelf. That helped, so while cold water does extract the dyestuff, I don’t seem able to make the wool take it at low temps. Also, the flowers didn’t exhaust, they were still dark as ever. (more water might be the solution to that)

They were so close in colour at the end, even though one was in pure vinegar, that I poured some ammonia directly onto the rainwater batch as it was sitting in the sink, then immediately hosed it with water. And, well, green again, even though there was tin in there. So I still have no clue what happened with the other batch refusing!

* * *

I used a total of 150 g flowers for all experiments, 280 g yarn and 195 g fleece.

* * *

~~Polled Dorset. Scoured, dyed at pH 7, ammonia pH 9, vinegar pH 2. Iron afters for all. Mordant tin/alum/CoT. Temperature: 60.~~ Well, that was my plan for the remaining fleece. But then I suddenly couldn’t be bothered. So there. I still have some undyed Dorset. And no drumcarder. Spacebags? Fir cones? (yes) Madder? (yes)

– Hollyhock 1
– Hollyhock 2
– Hollyhock 2½

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Stokroser 3

Et par små resteprojekter med stokroserne på tin-bejset dorset uld, noget af det farvet “lunkent” på brændeovnen, noget forsøgt koldt i vindueskarmen, men selvom det sidste trækker farve ud af blomsterne, så sætter det sig ikke på ulden.

Jeg kunne ikke få den grønne farve frem denne gang, ved ikke om det evt. er tinnet der holder på det blå-lilla.

Dye day

17. November 2012 PiaAcid Dyeing

I decided to clean out my dye shelf and start afresh, running out of 1% “clean” colours and lots of little leftovers cluttering the place that I no longer remember the formula for.

So I dug out my bin of Suffolk fleece and just kept throwing chunks and dyes into a couple of pots of vinegar water, keeping them hot all the while.

And then I got all excited, mixed up a new batch of each dye and began mixing again to dye the rest of the fleece. For some reason all my different reds turned out a pretty similar orange, but that can be fixed….

This means I’m done “spot” dyeing my Suffolk fleece, apart from the batch I’m going to flick and spin as is or comb on my superfines.

I’d love to process the rest on a drumcarder however, because it’s not in any kind of lock formation, so I’m going to leave it for a bit to see if I can get a hold of one. Possibly spend idle hours (a concept I once read about) picking and flicking so the VM is gone.

It’s been separated into colour groups, each one will be a yarn I think.

Recently I also dyed some more Shetland for my sweater project

And a couple of sock yarns that are supposed to look like worn denim.

Teensy tansy tests

20. August 2012 PiaPå dansk

1400 g Tanacetum vulgare. Boil, leave for 3 days due to stupor.

First, simmer one mordanted skein for 20 minutes. VERY sunny. More so than the photo below shows (1st skein on the left).

Then enter 2 more skeins + some unmordanted fleece. Take out yarns after half an hour, put one in ammonia soak.

Enter two mystery skeins, previously dyed a dull grey-yellow last year. Leave in fleece. Simmer an hour, then cool in the pot.

Quick iron dip seemed to do nothing much (unlike the Dyer’s chamomile for instance, which just needs a quick dip to turn the yarn olive green) so that’s the skein that had an alkaline modifier. You could leave the ammonia in the yarn for an even deeper bronze, but it’s not good for the wool, so I didn’t, and most of it rinsed out.

CORRECTION AUGUST 21st: After unwrapping one of my cloth experiments, I can say that tansy does react with iron giving a strong olive. In this case however the iron was in the cloth first, i.e. as a mordant, then tansy cold dye poured on as an afterthought. Noteworthy I think!

The mystery skeins were slightly altered, quite greenish. Despite the large amount of dyestuff to yarn, I felt the pot was exhausted, seems like the first skein sucked up all the good stuff. One could use this for a series of yarns from dark to pale by entering one skein at a time and/or leaving in for different amounts of time. I can’t help thinking that a 1:1 dye ratio would give a rather dull shade…

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Rejnfan

En lille hurtig test med stor plantemængde i forhold til garn – i alt 5 nøgler á 35 g + en håndfuld uld. Suffolk tror jeg. 1400 g blomster, kogt en time, derefter trukket 3-4 dage.

Først kom jeg 1 bejset bundt i og simrede ca. 20 minutter, hvorefter det var meget mørkt og solgult (mere end på billedet).

Så puttede jeg to mere i, samt en håndfuld vasket men ubejset uld. De fik nok en halv time, det ene dyppede jeg i jern uden at der skete noget, så i stedet kom det i ammoniakbad, hvilket gav en dyb bronze farve. Når man skyller mister man lidt af gløden, men det er jo ikke så godt for uld at være basisk, så det må jeg leve med. Men muligheden foreligger hvis man ønsker.

RETTELSE: efter at have pakket en af mine stofpakker op, kan jeg se at hvis man bruger jern FØRST, som bejse, så giver rejfan faktisk en kraftig oliven/jægergrøn farve!

Ulden lod jeg ligge og puttede så to kedelige brungule fed i, som jeg ikke kan huske hvad de er farvet med. De blev noget grønlige af den tur, absolut forbedrede, og sjovt nok mere ens end da de kom i. De fik en time + afkøling.

Og så syntes jeg farvebadet så lidt svagt ud, det første fed må virkelig have suget til sig af farvestofferne. Det kan man jo udnytte netop til at skabe en gradueret skala af gul fra kraftig til bleg. Hvor gult det bliver når man bruger 1:1 plante og garn fik jeg ikke afprøvet, men jeg tror måske jeg vil holde mig til den kraftige suppe hvis der skal være lidt pang.

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Leftovers

11. August 2012 PiaAcid Dyeing

Whenever I mix too much dye I grab an old honey pot (or any handy jar), shove in a bit of fleece and pour over the leftovers. Sometimes I even layer them, sometimes that works, sometimes it all comes out a uniform colour when I pull it out. But the funny thing is, I’ve so far never gotten any “mud”! I then steam them when I have a whole bunch of jars. The wool seems fine even sitting there for a week before I find time to heat it.

I’m pretty sure that all these colourful chunks of Suffolk fleece are going to make funky, awesome socks someday… Or a blanket. Or something. I have 1600 g and plan to dye most of it apart from one bag of the best locks which I’ll spin as they are.

And yes, there’s still VM in there, but I’m going to pick/flick and spin directly unless I get mini combs or a drumcarder before I get through the whole lot, so no point in fussing too much over it now. I like the way the colour is not completely uniform when you dye the locks as opposed to the yarn.

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Farverester

Når jeg syrefarver har jeg nogen gange farve til overs, fx. fordi jeg fortynder mere end jeg regnede med. I stedet for at spilde det, blander jeg det enten sammen lidt tilfældigt og hælder over en håndfuld uld (jeg har en hel ham liggende) i et honningbæger, kaffeglas eller hvad jeg nu har ledigt, eller jeg hælder det på i “lag” hvilket nogen gange virker og giver en klump med variation, andre gange flyder det sammen. Sjovt nok har jeg aldrig fået mudderfarvet på den konto, selvom jeg eksperimenterer voldsomt med sammensætningen. (og nogen gange ærgrer jeg mig over at jeg ikke har noteret/målt blandingen fordi det blev super flot).

Når der så er bøtter nok, propper jeg dem i den store gryde og damper dem. På et tidspunkt regner jeg med der er nok til et par hippiesokker, et garnmaleri eller hvad pokker jeg nu finder på. Ulden tager tilsyneladende ikke skade af at stå i farvebadet selv i en uge.

Alle totterne er fra et Suffolk får, jeg fik ulden af min høleverandør og har selv vasket og sorteret den. Jeg bliver nok aldrig afhængig af uldvask, men det er nu alligevel en sær tilfredsstillelse at gennemføre et projekt helt fra bunden. Jeg har ikke renset ulden for planterester, det var nogen meget mågede får! Så jeg regner med at pille lokkerne fra hinanden og lige give det en kam inden jeg spinder. Jeg kan godt lide at farven bliver lidt uens når man farver på denne måde, frem for at farve garnet, jeg synes det giver mere liv og dybde. Der er 1600 g i alt, og ud over en pose med de bedste stykker sorteret fra, som jeg vil spinde direkte, har jeg tænkt mig at bare farve det hele i bidder og se hvor det fører mig hen.

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COLOUR COTTAGE

c/o Pia Juul

Tag: dorset