Tag: green

Tagetes 2

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Testing the Tagetes patula “French Marigold” in the same way as the first batch.

tagetes5

The dyebath was quite brown compared to the other tagetes, but in the end this skein also came out a strong yellow. They’re not completely the same hue, so this year I’ll probably continue testing them separately.

tagetes4

Two years ago I also dyed with the same flower type and got 3 greens. I suspect that since one skein was copper mordanted, it simply poluted the dyebath, and not because the flowers or my method that year were any different.

tagetes6
(looking rather metallic in the sun – they’re not really)

This is the reason I prefer modifying with iron and copper rather than mordant, even if I rinse the skeins well. But at least we know this dye can be modified, so I’ll be testing that as well. They may also become one of my choices for testing the rhubarb mordant vs. unmordant and alum in terms of colour and lightfastness.

Tagetes 1

Tagetes 3

på dansk

Samme test pÃ¥ denne tagetes som pÃ¥ den foregÃ¥ende, ogsÃ¥ med flot resultat. De tre grønne er fra forrige Ã¥r, hvor det ene var kobberbejset, sÃ¥ jeg mistænker at det har “forurenet” hele farvebadet. Men det kan jo ogsÃ¥ være interessant. Jeg foretrækker dog at tilføje jern og kobber efter farvning, af samme Ã¥rsag.

Horsetail – Agerpadderok

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equisetum / padderokke
equisetum arvense

2011:

Equisetum / Padderokke

2012:

svaleurtequisetum

2013:

equisetum2013

So, how did I achieve the first skein in a bright yellow colour? Young plants? Not using a lot of dyestuff?

I know they were a bit old this year, but the 2011 was photographed on June 28th and I don’t know if it had been just dyed or if it was a larger photosession (I see other yarns on the same day in my photo folder – no notes). And some old books state that you pick fully developed plants and then dry them before dyeing. Others say fresh and green. That’s usually May/early June here.

The other difference being, this year I solar dyed the yarn. Very greenish this time (in fact the same but a bit lighter as the Lady’s Mantle), whereas more in the brown direction last year.

Whether I’ll use this plant again or not, depends on the lightfastness test – I’m busy making strips to test for the next 2 months. Since so many plants give yellow, I’m actually more interested in developing the greens, so iron and copper could be interesting. The old books use chrome, but that’s no longer available here.

Incidentally, if you like a good beige, go for the spore thingies in early spring. According to said books.

PÃ¥ dansk

Jeg har testet padderok de sidste 3 år, første år har jeg ingen noter fra, så jeg gætter på at jeg måske har brugt meget friske, unge skud til den lysegule farve. Ulden fra 2012 er brungrumset, og årets garn, som er solfarvet 4 dage med ret gamle planter, er så blevet grønligt; det er faktisk samme farve som garnet med Løvefod, blot en tand lysere.

Jeg er gået i gang med at lave test for lysægthed, den vil bestemme om jeg vil farve med denne plante igen en anden gang.

Bits and bobs

PiaAcid Dyeing

Not much going on here, but I did pop some of the solid hexagons I’ve knitted into a dyepot for a bit more pow. Should have diluted it a tad more, as some of them came out black! Of course being superwash, they grew to gigantic proportions when wet, so I tossed them in a bag and into the dryer. Wanna see what happens when you do that?

hex02

I’d meant to tie-dye or paint some of them but felt too distracted. Instead I did a couple of micro skeins with mixed leftovers. There goes “subtle” for the blanket colourscheme! And I have a couple of other ideas to try out…

hex03

Otherwise I’ve managed to finish the sleeves on my two “endless” sweaters, meaning they are in fact DONE. And since it’s never ending sweater summer, I may actually get to wear them… The orange is a cotton/alpaca blend on 4 mm and the blue is Wollmeise lace-yarn on 3mm. And no, the fronts don’t meet up and aren’t supposed to.

orange3

wollmeise02

Nettles 2013

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nettle4

Having been taunted by the lovely greens on other peoples’ yarns, I decided to do this at least once, even though I’ve always thought it would just give a pale yellow.

I first used the method described by Jenny Dean, where you chop up the plant tops, pour boiling water on them, steep for a day, then boil as usual. I recommend using sturdy garden gloves while chopping, unless you need a new pair of rubber gloves anyway. (I don’t know why this came as a surprise, as I frequently draw blood when making salads. What does baffle me however is the fact that my left thumb is still the same size and shape!)

I started off with 350 g of plant to 25 g of yarn, because that’s what I’d picked. Dean’s recipe says 1:1, but MotherOwl suggested at least 8:1 which was good advice. Anyway, simmering/boiling the yarn didn’t give me much of interest. So I decided to keep it under 60° C and that made the green much more vibrant. So I ended up doing an unmordanted skein for a paler colour, one to modify with iron and one cotton, as it apparently can give dark green with iron. It did, but then rinsed out to a dark grey-brown. Could be the tannin mordant, could be that Jenny Dean doesn’t rinse her yarn, but since iron makes it brittle, I always do.

nettle1

For some reason, the alum mordanted skein doesn’t show correctly with the others, so here’s one of it on its own which I think is more true.

nettle2

Brændenælder

Jeg havde egentlig diskvalificeret nælder som farveplante, fordi jeg forestillede mig at den bare giver en fesen lysegul. Men der er nogen som fremviser grøn, så jeg måtte alligevel prøve. Jenny Dean skriver bl.a. at det med jern giver mørkegrøn på bomuld.

Først brugte jeg Deans metode hvor man hakker bladene, hælder kogende vand pÃ¥ og lader stÃ¥ til dagen efter, hvorefter man koger, farver osv. som “normalt”. Jeg anbefaler at bruge havehandsker nÃ¥r man hakker, med mindre man alligevel trænger til nye gummihandsker. Jeg ved ikke hvorfor det overraskede mig, for jeg har ofte blod i mine salater. Til gengæld er det forbløffende at min venstre tommelfinger stadig har sin oprindelige facon!

Den normale metode med kogning gav en kedelig khakigrøn, sÃ¥ jeg besluttede at forsøge med en lavere temperatur og bruge bladene med det samme – sÃ¥ et kort bad pÃ¥ 60° og sÃ¥ et par stykker i jernbad bagefter. Og det blev en hel del bedre! Bomuldsfeddet blev dog grÃ¥t efter skyl, mÃ¥ske pga bejsning med garvesyre, mÃ¥ske fordi Dean ikke vasker sit garn bagefter, men eftersom jern mørner garnet foretrækker jeg at gøre det.

Efter råd fra Uglemor brugte jeg omkring 10:1 plante:garn istedet for det gængse forhold 1:1, og det må siges at være vejen frem. Ellers er jeg ret sikker på, at garnet rent faktisk var blevet fesengult!

Lilacs 2013

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syringa

Two years ago I tried dyeing with lilacs and failed miserably: murky. I eventually suspected that this was due to boiling the flowers, it was at the beginning of my dye career, I didn’t know any better. This is what my 2011 skeins look like today:

syringa3

Well, this year I had the chance again, this time aiming for 60 degrees which is the lowest my automatic, programmable and very neat hotplate goes. Gift from the SO who just happened to see it in the supermarket and think of me, pretty great, huh? Just what every girl wants for xmas, kitchen utensils! 😉

The copper mordanted yarn is nothing much to behold, in fact it’s like the old results, but the others! Score! The unmordanted skein is actually very faintly green, I’m playing with “toned whites” at the moment…. The yellow is tin mordant.

syringa2

In the sun:

syringa4

Syrenfarvning

For to år siden, da jeg lige var begyndt at plantefarve, kogte jeg alle planter og resultatet med syren blev variende nuancer af beige. Jeg har senere tænkt på om det ville lykkes bedre ved en lavere temperatur, og sørme ja, 60 grader blev det til og en ny plante der giver grøn. Med kobberbejse bliver det stadig brunt, med tin citrongult.