Vodka

…is what my kitchen reeks of as we’re speaking.

perikum1From this jar which I prepared in August and then completely forgot about, filled with flowers of St. John’s Wort. I suppose technically they can’t rot infused with alcohol, but the colour is definitely not the brilliant red it was in September.

I know Rita Buchanan says you don’t get interesting colours with the alcohol solution, but I didn’t find enough flowers per day to make boiling worthwhile. I also didn’t have any mordanted yarn, so I did a reverse, first I entered an unmordanted skein and left on the woodstove for a few days, then I put mordant in the jar with another skein, left it on the stove, then decided to boil it in the oven for an hour or so.

And that is why my house stinks. Just wait until I pour it into the sink…. I guess it’s a good thing I’m home alone and not expecting company! (ok, the kitten in my lap just farted – that didn’t help any, but if he keeps it up perhaps nobody will suspect me of drinking at least)

Well, they’re not alike. That counts for something, right? First on top.

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More witchy brews – all done!

Finally got the last of the Dorsets coloured up with madder and weld. Some of the chunks had previously been dyed with other plants, but I wanted to see what happened if they had another dip – without any kind of plan or registration of which is what. Some dyed at 50 C, then a new batch in the same bath at 80 C for both plants.

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Now to flick and then wait until I can card it. There’s a total of 1400 g so it’s going to take a while, since I also have that Suffolk fleece from the same source. I know I should practice using my handcarders, but argh!

dorset

And that’ll be all for a while, off to work on other stuff.

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Færdig

Endelig har jeg fået plantefarvet al min Dorset uld, så skal det bare renses for planterester og kartes en gang. Der er i alt 1400 g, så det kommer til at tage tid. Jeg har også en Suffolk ham som jeg har pletfarvet med syrefarver, den skal have samme behandling før jeg kan spinde.

Jeg har brugt kraprod og hjemmedyrket vau, første bad ved 50 grader, blandet bejset og ikke, derefter mere blandet og før-farvet uld i samme bad og op på 80 grader

Ikke mere plantefarvning i denne omgang, nu er der fokus på andre projekter.

Fir cones

Gathered cones from what I assume is Picea abies, since that’s what they look like and what is most common in a Danish forest. Just a standard tap water simmer job, no research into pH or other methods.

Intense looking dyebath – will it take?

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I wonder if they have more juice in them?

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Ok result on mordanted Dorset. The orange stuff is same wool from a little madder pot, that I couldn’t be bothered sorting for the photo.

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Unmordanted wool in the leftover dyebath, with an “exhausted” 35 g of madder thrown in as well. Half the skein dunked in iron water after, then rinsed. I normally let dry before I rinse, but, not today.

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Kogler af rødgran

En lille farvetest af indsamlede kogler fra efteråret. Ulden er Dorset, som var bejset på forhånd. Den orange portion er farvet med lidt kraprod (ikke kogler) og garnet er fra resten af koglevandet, derefter halvt dyppet i jernvand og skyllet. Det var lidt mere brunt inden skyl, men sådan er det jo en gang imellem.

Hollyhock 3

This post will be a collection of my last experiments this time round. Nothing special, just to wrap it up as, well as being the only kind of documentation I seem motivated to do for my dyeing…

* * *

I took the very acid jar, strained the flowers, crammed the jar with fleece undtil it was all soaked up, then I filled the jar until it was full and topped it up with the “no longer alkaline” liquid from the blue skein. Since that was already done from exhausts, there was not much juice left, but I wanted to see if I could create a “rainbow” jar or if it would all eventually intermingle to one shade. And this did indeed happen. On the last night the jar was still variegated in looks, red, purple, brown, but in the morning when I wanted to empty it, all purple. The biggest surprise came when I put half of it into ammonia. It didn’t change AT ALL!? No green. WTF? So despite having measured the water to pH 10, I held my breath and added another glug of ammonia. And got grey…. Leaves me wondering if the tin mordant makes the purple more stable?

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Then I put the very sour flowers from above into a new jar and topped with rain water to see how much juice they had left. Start pH 3 just from the acid in the soaked flowers. Put it on stove shelf, they did indeed contain more dyestuff. pH 3 while hot. Added too much fleece so topped with rainwater, pH 4, very pale pink. Back on the shelf because I had trouble with the set below and wanted to heat test the fleece in dye, even a weak one, before adding the rest of the fleece to a new bath in the canner.

As I mentioned in connection with the pink skein, the heat in itself seems to alter the dye to purple despite the pH. When it was done, it ended up silver grey and it’s the first time I’ve seen a plant dyebath exhause completely. Absolutely clear water left when I took the fleece out! The flowers themselves were also done for, 1st image below is flowers after the last extraction.

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* * *

The Teaser jars: I emptied them after 3 days instead of weeks, as it looked like they were as dark as they could get and just beginning to alter their shade. Turns out, the fleece wasn’t really taking the dye. Whether due to my previously unresolved issues with Dorset or the cold method, hard to tell since no yarn was in there with it. I put it back.

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Wait 10 days, still in the window, temps 15-20 C. Very dark liquid, fleece rinsing out nearly white. Mould on top of the rainwater jar, the vinegar jar keeping fine. Time for a quickie on the shelf. That helped, so while cold water does extract the dyestuff, I don’t seem able to make the wool take it at low temps. Also, the flowers didn’t exhaust, they were still dark as ever. (more water might be the solution to that)

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They were so close in colour at the end, even though one was in pure vinegar, that I poured some ammonia directly onto the rainwater batch as it was sitting in the sink, then immediately hosed it with water. And, well, green again, even though there was tin in there. So I still have no clue what happened with the other batch refusing!

* * *

I used a total of 150 g flowers for all experiments, 280 g yarn and 195 g fleece.

* * *

Polled Dorset. Scoured, dyed at pH 7,  ammonia pH 9, vinegar pH 2. Iron afters for all. Mordant tin/alum/CoT. Temperature: 60. Well, that was my plan for the remaining fleece. But then I suddenly couldn’t be bothered. So there. I still have some undyed Dorset. And no drumcarder. Spacebags? Fir cones? (yes) Madder? (yes)

Hollyhock 1
Hollyhock 2
Hollyhock 2½

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Stokroser 3

Et par smÃ¥ resteprojekter med stokroserne pÃ¥ tin-bejset dorset uld, noget af det farvet “lunkent” pÃ¥ brændeovnen, noget forsøgt koldt i vindueskarmen, men selvom det sidste trækker farve ud af blomsterne, sÃ¥ sætter det sig ikke pÃ¥ ulden.

Jeg kunne ikke få den grønne farve frem denne gang, ved ikke om det evt. er tinnet der holder på det blå-lilla.

Pinky

hhock10Remember this jar on the right?

It was eventually done cooking on the stove. 2 days like the other 3 skeins, ph 2, as high as I managed to get it. Pure vinegar with some acetic acid. I measured again when done and it was closer to 1.

I was very excited to see if it would keep its rose tint during the dye process and of course after. Well, here you go:

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Dry skein reeking of vinegar
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Skein rinsed then dried again.

Unfortunately it seems that rinsing out the vinegar will push it towards purple once it dries. Even if there is actually a bit of vinegar in the 2nd rinse water. OR it could be heat. See, I wanted to wrap up this post and put the yarn close to the stove. The most wet ends turned more purplish than the rest before I noticed and moved it. Sic! So, heat definitely pushes it towards purple. As well as time.

I meant to do another skein in there upping the ph slightly – but I lost steam, didn’t get to mordant more yarn, and, well.

I’m going to re-photograph all the skeins later, as they do seem to change a bit after curing. I also don’t always rinse them until they’ve dried and rested for a bit.

And here they are:
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* * *

Dre asked me about pH change during the process. I did not measure at each temperature shift, but the juice in the above photos, which started out at 8 and 2, are now 6 and 1 (or that’s as low as my strip goes). The two jars in the window however have not changed since I made them, they’ve been in temps between 15-20 C.

Just for fun I think I’ll stuff some fleece in the highly acidic jar, then afterwards dip it in the former alkaline jar. Which is now no longer alkaline, where did that ammonia go?!

Fun fact which unfortunately I wasn’t allowed to document: when I hung the pink skein to drip in the shower (white floor), the splash pattern was pink in the middle with a larger ring of drops around it, they were indigo blue! As well as the run off between the tiles, dark, dark blue.

Anyone care to take a guess at what happened there and is it related to the pink/purple issue of the finished skein?